Although there are several kinds of fondue dishes, the most familiar one is cheese. This is especially popular in Swiss cafes where one sees people spearing hunks of bread on long forks and dunking them into hot cheese.
To prepare fondue for four persons, rub the inside of a heavy saucepan with garlic. Pour in 13/4 cups dry white wine and heat slowly until the wine starts to bubble. Meanwhile, dice 1/2 pound each of well-aged Gruyere and Emmentaler cheeses (if not well aged, they tend to lump). Mix the cheeses with 2 tablespoons cornstarch and toss with your hands.
Add a handful of the cheese mixture to the wine and stir with a wooden spoon until it is almost melted; then add another handful. Continue adding the cheese in batches and stirring until all is blended. The cheese will clump at first, but finally will become creamy. Add 1/4 cup kirsch and a dash each of pepper and nutmeg.
Transfer the cheese to a fondue pot set over a table warmer. (If the fondue separates, return it to moderate heat on the stove and stir in a blend of 1/4 cup white wine and 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch.) Give each guest a fondue fork and about 1/4 pound of 11/2-inch bread cubes, each with some crust on it.
Chocolate fondue can be a fun conclusion for a meal. Melt 1 pound semisweet chocolate pieces in a fondue pot over low heat. Stir in 2 tablespoons rum, brandy, or kirsch. Provide the guests with one or more of the following for dipping: thoroughly chilled cherries, strawberries, or chunks of pears or peaches; also cubed angel food or sponge cake, or plain cookies.